The video below covers how to clean a 1911 that does not need a tool to remove the barrel bushing. There are also written steps below.
I did not have access to this other style of 1911, so I could not include that in the video. My apologies, but all the processes translate over to that type as well.
Anyway, let’s get to it!
Phase 1: Takedown
The first rule of gun cleaning is to make sure the gun is unloaded. This means to check the chamber AFTER you have cleared the magazine.
After the weapon is determined to be clear, 1911 disassembly begins by pulling the slide back enough to give the recess cut on the slide room to work the takedown lever/pin out of the frame.
With one hand, you keep the slide in place. The other hand pushes then pulls the lever/pin out of the frame. This allows the frame to be removed.
Next, remove the slide. Be aware, there is spring tension in the slide. If you drop or bounce the slide much, the spring and other parts may launch across the room.
This may result in cursing, looking at scratches and trying to find parts. Placing the thumb over the spring greatly reduces the chances of that.
Then, gently release the pressure for a simple slide disassembly.
With the spring removed, the next step is to remove the barrel bushing. A leftward rotation allows for the removal of the bushing by freeing up the lugs.
The recoil spring plug will drop out as well.
After that, the barrel link must be folded to allow it to be removed from the slide.
This completes the basic brake down of the pistol to clean a 1911. You can remove other parts for detailed maintenance or to fix broken pieces, but for a standard range cleaning there is no need to go further.
Phase 2: Cleaning
Although this barrel is not dirty as you see in the video, I always run a wet patch or mop through the barrel first.
This allows the cleaner to have a long time to work at loosening up the built-up carbon before a brush is run through.
In working with the more recessed areas, like the recoil spring plug, I like to saturate a Q-tip to ensure sufficient cleaning fluid gets at the carbon trapped inside.
My process for cleaning the spring and guide rod varies from many. I don’t remove the guide rod unless it is quite dirty.
Simply sliding it down ¼ – ½ an inch provides access for the cleaning fluid and saves the step of fitting the spring back over it.
For the stripped slide, I use a wet cleaning patch to coat the entire interior and exterior with fluid. Again, I am not really cleaning at this stage.
Rather, getting the fluid in contact with the filth and giving it time to loosen it up for removal later.
Often, the external area of the frame rail is missed and this can get quite dirty, especially on a carry gun. A good wipe with a wet cleaning patch on the outside is just as important as on the inside.
A different type of filth is removed, but all filth is bad.
The frame has more small recesses than the slide and the use of a very wet Q-tip is quite helpful in reaching those areas with the fluid for pre-cleaning.
The magazine and the magwell need a wipe-down as well. Especially on a carry gun, lots of dust will accumulate there.
You can remove the grips if you want. There will often be a slight layer of gunk where they meet the metal. I do that at about every three to five cleanings.
After allowing the fluid to soak in, I begin cleaning. On a fairly clean gun, by the time you have applied fluid to the entire gun, you can begin cleaning.
In any area you find your patch or paper towel getting really dirty, a second application of cleaning fluid should be applied and removed after the rest of the gun has had the once-over.
Repeat until all areas are clean.
I like to use paper towels for the initial removal of the cleaning fluid when I clean a 1911.
They are cheap, easy to manipulate and there is no temptation to keep working with one that is dirty.
For areas that are very dirty, scrubbing with a patch or Q-tip will provide faster removal and more pressure.
I like the precision of needle applicators for my gun oil. They allow me to concentrate the oil where I need it, like on the barrel link and the frame rails.
As you can see, with application down the length of the barrel, a bit more pressure on the bottle will provide a nice line to spread across large surfaces.
All metal components should have at least a thin layer of oil as a rust preventative.
The barrel bushing, barrel link, frame rails and slide rails should all have a thicker application as they are high-friction zones.
Phase 3: Reassembly
This works in the reverse order of disassembly.
First, rebuild the slide by reinserting the barrel. The barrel link must be flat to allow it to pass into the frame.
Then, insert the recoil spring plug and refasten the barrel bushing to keep the recoil spring plug in place.
Then, add the spring into the plug and compress the spring and guide rod to allow it to rest against the barrel link.
When installing the spring, keep pressure on the length of the spring so it does not slinky out on you.
You also need to pair the fingers on the guide rod over the barrel. Once this is done and secured at the barrel link, it is fairly secure.
With the slide assembled, it needs to be reattached to the frame. Ensure the barrel link is in the proper position to not interfere with slide movement.
It helps to have the hammer back as well. Move the slide back to where the recess is in alignment with the hole for the takedown lever.
I use one hand to keep the slide and frame in alignment and the other to carefully position the pin in place.
This requires the barrel link and the frame hole to be in alignment. Then, gently push the pin about 1/3 of the way in.
You are looking for just enough to engage the barrel link while still retaining the ability to rotate it without scratching the frame.
This is important so you can position the slide recess over the notch in the lever without scratching/gouging the frame.
When all is aligned properly, apply firm pressure to the lever to overcome the tension on the slide-stop spring.
Once this is in place, the gun should be properly reassembled. Rack the slide a few times and dry fire to make sure all components are tight, but not binding, as well as functional.
If there is any resistance to those actions, take the gun apart and reassemble. Generally speaking, a 1911 doesn’t allow you to get it back together if you have done something wrong.
Conclusion: Cleaning a 1911 Handgun
After these steps, you now have a clean and lubricated gun. Congrats, that is how to clean a 1911 pistol.
How do you clean a 1911? What other gun-cleaning videos would you like to see? Let us know in the comments section below!
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